Cafeteria (by Kosta)

I've walked down Newbury Street many times in the past, but somehow never managed to check out Cafeteria. The other night Steph Santos and I braved the rain to try it out. Entering through a basement level entrance, we were greeted by Demetri, the director of operations. He escorted us upstairs to a very open dining area with large windows that would let the sunlight in during the day. The ambiance that evening was very cozy; candles sat on the tables and muted lights in the background created an inviting feel. Our server Farah was very friendly, made good recommendations and was happy to discuss the various menu items and the restaurant in general.

After perusing the menu we dove into the cocktails. Steph started with the Blood Orange Fizz, ($10) a tangy citrus concoction with lime and mint that was sweet and refreshing. I had the Greek Mythology, ($12) a metaxa based drink with grapefruit juice, mint and honey. Later in the meal we switched to the Timeout, ($12) a cocktail more commonly known as a “Left Bank Martini” that is in the vein of vintage cocktails. Comprised of gin, St. Germain and Sauvignon Blanc, this was my favorite of the evening. We also tried the Bee Student ($10) which is a lighter version of the typical bourbon + citrus drink, with just a hint of honey. All the drinks were well balanced between the liquor and the mixers. The “cafeteria” themed names were cute.

While sipping on cocktails we ordered up a spread of appetizers and entrees.

The Spinach Artichoke Dip ($10) was outstanding. Finely chopped and pureed, the dip was creamy due to the goat cheese, a significant difference from what you find in many dips. It made for a rich and delicious appetizer. The flatbread was crispy and seasoned with an assortment of spices. Not inhaling the entire bowl all at once was a task.

I've never had Beef Carpaccio, ($12) but Cafeteria’s was pretty delicious. Incredibly thin slices of raw beef sirloin were drizzled in a mixture capers, olive oil, horseradish, and lemon with arugula on top, creating a delectable flavor. It was best when you got pieces that had all the ingredients mixed together.

I love Mexican food, so couldn’t pass up on the Cod Tacos. ($12.50) The flavors of the fish, radish, and pickled cabbage blended well. The spicy crema and salsa verde added a nice kick. The tortillas were flour instead of corn, but it did not detract, instead giving a subtler flavor. The fish was grilled which is how I prefer it as opposed to battered and fried. Overall they were a pretty good interpretation of west coast tacos.

I always like to try Greek food while eating out to see how it stands up to my family’s home cooking. The menu had a scattering of Greek and Middle Eastern influenced items on it. I tried a small sample of their tzatziki. A hint of lemon and garlic with small chunks of cucumber throughout mixed perfectly in the fresh Greek yogurt. I am more often than not disappointed by restaurant tzakiki due to their use of subpar yogurt or filler such as sour cream, Cafeteria did none of these things and succeeded at tzatziki.

Our entrees soon came out starting with the Mac –n- Cheese. ($14) It incorporated fontina and parmesan making a cheese sauce that was similar to what you would get when using beer or wine in your roué as opposed to one thickened up with creams. The flavor of the fancier cheese really came through and made this quite tasty. I recommend adding bacon if that’s your style.

As I've said in previous posts, properly prepared eggplant is hard to find when eating out. Too often it is overcooked and soggy, or not cooked enough. Cafeteria’s Eggplant Parmesan ($14.50) was one of those rare places where eggplant is done right. A hearty slice of lightly breaded eggplant stacked 6 pieces high was presented to us. The consistency was firm yet not hard and it melted apart in your mouth. Basil and fresh mozzarella topped the wedge. A light marinara covered each layer of eggplant, but didn't detract from the flavor. The side salad included quality greens such as spinach, arugula and red leaf lettuce; the dressing was simple lemony vinaigrette and nice compliment to the eggplant.

We picked their Boston Cream Burger ($13.50) as our choice out of the myriad of burger options. Of note was the preparation of the burger. We asked for medium, and medium we received; quite different from many places which can’t seem to prepare meat to specification. The grass fed beef with cheddar and sautéed onions made a great burger, but the habanero- radish cream cheese was the highlight. The spice of the habanero was cut by the cream cheese making a savory spread that was slathered over the bun. With the burger came a side of Parmesan Fries, which were double battered and sprinkled with parmesan. I just wanted to keep snacking on them. Next time I want to try the Homemade Black Bean Burger which looked amazing.

We finished off with a Caramel Apple Cheesecake ($8) and a 10 year Tawny Port. ($8) The caramel and apples were layered on top of the very dense, creamy cheesecake. Even though we were stuffed we made it through. The port was a complimentary partner.

I have to say Cafeteria did well with subtle and delicate; but also was very flavorful and put forward just the right amount of spice. I highly recommend checking them out for dinner and drinks if you find yourself wandering down Newbury Street like I have so many times.

Cafeteria
279a Newbury Street, Boston, MA
617-536-2233
http://www.cafeteriaboston.com/