Showing posts with label wine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wine. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Wine of the Week with John Syfor




2009 Finca Decero Cabernet Sauvignon

     This weeks' pick is a recent find from Argentina. Though a bit more money than the wines of the last three weeks, it is a steal at $18. Coming from the Remolinos Vineyard in Agrelo, a sub-appellation of Mendoza, this is higher elevation fruit from the foothills of the Andes. My experiences with higher elevation fruit in other regions of the world is that it produces wines with greater character, the same applies here.
     In the glass the 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is a dark garnet color with aromas of dusty blackberry, cherry, vanilla, and cedar with a floral note. On the palate it is medium to full bodied with a balance of blackberry fruit, smoke and mild grainy tannins. This is an elegant wine with the structure to age for a few years which is unusual for this price point. This wine will continue to develop and improve even further with a couple more years of bottle age. It should be drinking its best over the next 3 to 5 years.
This is an ideal wine for grilled steak.

John Syfor
john@federalwine.com

Monday, February 25, 2013

Wine of the Week with John Syfor



2011 Novellum Chardonnay

Like last week's red "Wine of the Week", this Chardonnay is a candidate for my everyday house white wine. I never thought an affordable Chardonnay would make it to my dinner table everyday, till I tasted this one from France's Cotes Catalanes. Due to its three months ageing with Viognier lees, its aromas of honey and saline minerality are given an extra boost of peach with a floral note. What are lees? They are the expired yeast cells of the fermentation process. In this wine, those yeast cells were added to the ageing of the wine in stainless steel. Viognier is a very floral scented white wine, so the yeast cells added some extra aromas as well as helping to create a creamy texture. In the mouth this wine is light and crisp with a lot of lemon and citrus along with that saline minerality. The crisp acidity helps makes this a great food pairing wine, especially with shellfish. 

John Syfor
john@federalwine.com

Thursday, February 14, 2013

Post 390 Cycles through the Local Food System (by Nina Quirk)

Like any good tourist in a foreign land I enjoy sampling the food. However over the past year, thanks to Post 390, I've traveled New England’s abundant farms without ever having to leave Boston. I have been enchanted while tasting some of the area’s finest ingredients. Fruit, berry and vegetable farms in the summer. Game and pork in the fall. Dairy farms and shell fisheries in the winter. Seeing food in light of what’s available month to month has helped me become aware of the species we cultivate here in the northeast. As luck would have it, we are rich in food and it is a great culinary tradition like Post 390 is hosting, that helps me to appreciate the abundance.

Okay, so after seven months of “Farm to Post” receptions, I arrived late to one. And, what’s worse about my tardiness is that I missed cocktail hour. Cocktail hour listed an hors d’oeuvre called Redman Cheddar-Pecan Shortbread with Apple Butter. Surely it was my loss.

I’m grateful they know me quite well after all these dinners. My hands were greeted with my favorite cocktail, the Provencal Gimlet. Quietly sipping, I reflected on the menu for the rest of the evening. Five more courses to indulge in. And what is even more exciting about this month’s farm is that they are featuring a Kosher Raw Milk cheese maker who pasture feeds his quaint lot on a 100 year old dairy farm.
Oh yeah, we were all in for a treat. I sat next to my favorite restaurant publicist Martha Sullivan and Sales Consultant Shane Brunette of Baldor Boston, a specialty foods distributor. Across the table sat Alan Glustoff and his wife Barbara of 5 Spoke Creamery, Meghan from the Travel, Wine, and Dine blog, and next to her, Globe Correspondent Jane Dornbusch.

While the minds at the table were certainly not simple; the table was set for cheese and cracker conversation.
So we had at it. Three sips deep into discussing the benefits of raw cow milk and the rise of urban farming and I realized the immense wealth of knowledge that sat at this table. Inquiring minds want to know, (and that’s me!) so I started asking questions.

I think I can at least speak for the central group at the table in saying we all learned a great deal about cheese making, land policy issues, how competitive the cheese market is, and Lance Armstrong’s drug scandal. After all this hard thinking, it was time to feast. However my mind could not rest. I thought about all the hands that contributed to the meal. How many people were doing a job they loved for wages below what they deserve? How many people can go back to work if we just started to view farming as a decent way to make a living. I started to annoy myself with all this thinking; it was time to shut up and eat.

Cauliflower and 5 Spoke Heritage Cheese Soup was laid down in front of us. In the middle sat a Brambly Farms pulled pork and Kimball Fruit Farm apple fritter; both ingredients from past feature farms. The stock of the soup was made with Steel Rail Extra Pale Ale by Berkshire Brewing Company and Brambly Farms bacon. With ingredients like this, need I say more? I did hear lots of “Oooh’s” and “Aaah’s” as people ate, if that is any indication.
Roasted Monkfish with Foraged Mushroom-Talcott Gratin, and Lobster Demi-Glace arrived right as I finished up the delicious glass of Godello, Rafael Placios, Louro, Valdeorras, Spain 2011. A glass of 2010 Frech Chenin Blanc, Marc Bredif, Vouvray Loire was awaiting me right away.
As we toasted the chef, we scoffed down this ‘poor man’s lobster.’ Monkfish is often called this because of its meaty, succulent texture. Beneath the fish swam three types of juicy wild mushrooms, in a puddle of melted, cheesy goodness. Succulent fare indeed.
The next course brought some innovation. It was comprised of a Rabbit and Welsh Cheddar Tamale served next to a marinated, roasted red pepper salad. This tamale had an authentic feel sitting in its husky jacket, busting at the seams with a mixture of pulled rabbit, masa, and 5 Spoke Welsh cheddar cheese. The earthy flavor matched well with the bright acidity of the peppers.
Herb Roasted Veal medallions and  panko encrusted Veal Sweetbreads sat on top of a bed of Orecchiette pasta in a Broccoli and Crawford Cloth Bound Cheddar Cheese Sauce. A veal jus was drizzled over the top. Layers upon layers of goodness. Each bite was delightfully paired next to a glass of Italian 2009 Barbera D’Alba, Sottimano, Pairolero.  The delicate red wine complimented this luxuriously rich dish.
Dessert time had come and so did the end of our enlightened conversation. I bid farewell to my new friends as we all raced to eat our Welsh Cheddar Bavarian. Flan-like custard was topped with Honey Apricots and Cinnamon Phyllo Crunch that tasted like Cinnamon Toast Crunch the cereal except this dessert was made from real ingredients. Certainly this was a perfect ending to the feast of our senses.

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Cinquecento (by Kosta)



Steph Santos and I had a lovely evening last Thursday night at Cinquecento, a new Italian restaurant and bar that has taken up residence in the space formerly held by Rocca. The newly renovated interior gave off a very chic vibe, somewhere between a Brooklyn loft and a swank downtown bar.
Waiters were circulating with a few appetizers being served up on platters along with a bevy of drinks. One I quite enjoyed was a toasted piece of bread with pancetta and pear on top. It was a great treat and a number of other similar appetizers were floating around.
The red and white wine being served paired well with the appetizers. We also sampled two cocktails prepared specially for the opening. A Limencello based drink with some herbs and spices was a perfect blend with sweet and floral notes coming though and I hope it becomes a standard on the menu. I also tried a great Basil cocktail which added a bit of a bite to an excellent drink.
Our last tastes were small cups of panna cotta with blueberries on top which was my favorite; the custard/cheese cake like desert was scrumptious. It was accompanied by biscotti with anise seeds providing a very strong but tasty flavor.
While tasting we also got to chat with a number of people in the Boston food scene and had a great time. We talked a while with Will from a Boston Foodie; definitely check out his blog, it’s one of the mainstays of the foodie community.
The event was sponsored by Ferrari and Maserati and the guests got to gawk at the fancy cars outside that had been parked as decoration.

Overall we had an enjoyable evening at this new hot spot. We’ll be sure to check it out for dinner sometime soon!

Cinqucento
500 Harrison Avenue
Boston, MA
http://www.cinquecentoboston.com

Friday, November 23, 2012

Vegivore Eats | Cream of Celeriac soup

 With this time of year upon us, the air getting nippy, our bellies begging by nightfall to just be full and warm -- let's make soup for dinner. I made a pretty divine cream of celeriac (celery root) to share with my family for the holiday yesterday.


 I realize I missed the opportunity to share this recipe with you prior to Thanksgiving, so you might've been able to make this for your Turkey Day crowd, but life has a funny way of stepping in to make sure you don't get anything done that you intended to do. C'est la vie. And also, oopsy.

Celery root is not much to look at.  NPR once put it best:
"Aboveground is a gorgeously symmetrical crown of green, celery-like growth radiating from the central knob to about 12 inches. However, pull up this pretty green crown and what you unearth looks like a troll's orb of warts and roots."
photo credit: wiveswithknives.net

 Once you are finished the tedious job of peeling the celeriac you have at your disposal a milky-white root vegetable resembling a turnip and tasting of celery, parsley and earth.

 A wonderful, vegetarian, perfect-for-Thanksgiving soup recipe posted after Thanksgiving is okay, right?  Will it help sell it if I tell you this just might be THE best soup to pass your lips?  Full of celery root and aromatics; wine and spice. Pureed and velvety.

 We still have all winter, friends,..and celeriac will be in season and locally available the whole time*.  December holidays are around the corner; keep this recipe in yer back pocket!  Belly up to your tureen of choice, just make sure this is what's inside.

My lovely assistant, also known as my everlovin' Mama

 CREAM OF CELERIAC SOUP
Serves 6-8

2 Tbs butter
2 lbs celeriac, peeled and cut to 1" dice
1 small fennel bulb, cut to 1" dice
2 Bermuda onions, diced
1 c celery, chopped (reserve leaves from tops)
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 tsp celery salt
1 tsp lemon pepper
pinch of cayenne pepper, more to taste
1/2 c dry white wine
5 c vegetable stock
1 c whipping cream

In a heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium heat.  Add prepared celery root, onions, fennel and celery.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper**, cover the pot and let steam for about 20 minutes (or until tender), stirring twice.
Add in the garlic, celery salt, lemon pepper and cayenne.  Stir a minute before adding the wine. Cook the mixture down, until most of the liquid evaporates.
 Add in the vegetable broth.  Bring to a boil, turn down the heat and let it simmer for about 15 minutes.
 Use your immersion blender to puree the soup entirely.
Stir the cream and simmer another 5 minutes.

Ladle into bowls, top with a grind of black pepper, minced celery leaves and a touch of olive oil before serving!

...

 *PRO TIP: Most supermarkets stock celery root/celeriac.  However, vegetables are so much more fresh and flavorful when they come from closer to home!  Try Parker Farm (Lunenberg) and Hutchins Farm (Concord) to have the chance to get your hands on the best celeriac in the region.

 **PRO TIP: I primarily use white pepper in this soup, just so guests aren't secretly wondering what the black specks are.  A grind of black pepper on the top is ok, tho -- contrast  :)

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Federal WineLines: Rhone Rangers (by John Syfor)

FEDERAL WINELINES

This Week’s Tasting: Rhone Rangers
2010 Winderlea Dundee Hills Pinot Noir Vignette: Invertebrate Terroir


This Week’s Tasting:
Wednesday, August 8th, 5:00pm - 7:00pm
60 State Street, 7th Floor 

Rhone Rangers

We have an exciting tasting this week. As a fan of the wines from the Rhone Valley, I am pleased to show American versions of these wines, which I find more interesting than the more familiar Chardonnays and Cabernets.

If you are unfamiliar with the term, Rhone Rangers are American winemakers who promote the use of grape varietals grown in France’s Rhone Valley. The Rangers began in California in the 1980s, but did not really catch on with consumers. The movement received some further attention in the late 1990s when the Perrin family, proprietors of Chateau de Beaucastel, one of the two or three best estates in Chateauneuf du Pape, founded Tablas Creek Vineyard in Paso Robles, in partnership with their American wine importer. They also began a nursery with grape vine cuttings from Beaucastel itself, which they both sell to other growers and use to make their own wines.

In the southern Rhone, the wines are almost always blends, while northern reds are nearly all Syrah, and the whites, if not single varietals are two or three at the most. However, in America, winemakers are free to make either single varietals or blends at their will. While the Rhone Ranger are now represented in a number of winemaking states, all of this weeks wines are from California.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

The Perfect Summer White Wine (by John Syfor)

The name may sound familiar, as I recently featured this wines' "red relative". Well, Summer is here and it is time to bring out some "refreshing white wines". The 2011 Cooper Hill Pinot Gris from Willamette Valley, Oregon grabbed my attention with its crisp acidity and enticing fruit. It is light in body, but has plenty of Pinot Gris’ characteristic. Peach and green herb flavors. Grab a bottle and chill it down to cut through the heat. This wine is perfect for a barbecue, the beach, or just relaxing by poolside (or on the stoop, depending on "how you roll"). And just like the red wine from this producer, it is made with organic and biodynamic grapes.

John Syfor - Wine Consultant
Federal Wines and Spirits
29 State Street, Boston MA

Monday, June 11, 2012

The Most Interesting American Pinot Noir (by John Syfor)

The Most Interesting American Pinot Noir I have Tasted So Far

      
     Part of my job is to taste wine everyday...I know, boo hoo. Truth is, most of what I taste is uninteresting, especially when it is American wine.  That said, I am always in search of "interesting" American wines. Recently I had the opportunity to taste the wines of Bergstrom, a winery from Oregon. From the first taste of their Chardonnay to the last sip of their single vineyard Pinot Noir, I was hooked. These wines speak of the earth from which they come, which is common of European wine, but not always so of "New World" wines. Like their "high-quality" European counterparts, these wines are not inexpensive, but dollar for dollar, they are much more affordable. 

The featured wine is the Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir: this wine is a blend of fruit from four vineyards. 
Color: Clear, Dark Garnet
Aromas: Black Cherry, Smoke, Spice, Meaty
Mouth: Medium-Full Body, Cherry, Earthy Spice, Smokey, Balanced Acidity, Long Finish

John Syfor - Wine Consultant
Federal Wines and Spirits
29 State Street, Boston MA
john@federalwine.com

Saturday, February 25, 2012

2009 Bordeaux Is Here!

    Bordeaux is a wine region which many young wine drinkers have heard of but have very little experience with. This is mainly due to continually rising costs of the top name Chateau of the region, which put these wines out of reach for many of us. Also there is the ageability of these wines. Many of us have randomly purchased a bottle of current release Bordeaux only to find the wine to be both very acidic and tannic, making it almost undrinkable. Most of us do not have the storage space nor the time to wait these wines out to catch them in their full glory.


   
 Well, the 2009's are just beginning to arrive here in the States and I must say there are many which are  presenting very well early on. This is mainly to do with the vintage. 2009 being very ripe vintage. What this means is more fruit up front and less acid and with smoother tannins. There are still many wines, especially those which carry higher price tags, that should be held onto for a longer period of time, but I have already tasted a few which have shown well after only a few hours of breathing time. If you have the time and space, it would be best to wait 2-3 years to start drinking. If like me you do not, then just pull the cork, decant and wait about two hours. And the best thing is, most of what I have tasted have been under $30.
 
  If you are looking for any recommendations or suggestions, just shoot me an email or pay me a visit at the store.

John Syfor - Wine Consultant
Federal Wines and Spirits
29 State Street, Boston MA

Friday, February 3, 2012

Wine: Beef-Friendly Everyday Value

Available at Federal Wines & Spirits

The 2008 Villa San Maurice Cabernet Sauvignon Central Coast was presented to me last week and I was immediately struck by the quality and structure for the price. This is not simple wine. In 2001, Kevin Shanno acquired Villa San Maurice and turned it into one of California’s premier multi-appellation wineries. The Cabernet is balanced with 10% Merlot and is sourced from vineyards in both Paso Robles and Monterrey

2008 Villa San Maurice Cabernet Sauvignon Central Coast: Dark purple, Smokey cassis, black olive and spice. Medium to full bodied with lively acidity and mild tannin. Fresh cherry fruit with a hint of mint. Long balanced fresh finish Very Good Plus 11.99/bottle 10.79/mixed case 10.19/case
John Syfor - Wine Consultant
Federal Wines and Spirits
29 State Street, Boston MA