Post 390: The New Food Think Tank (by Nina Quirk)

“Eating is an agricultural act.” From “The Pleasures of Eating” by Farmer and Poet Wendell Berry  

“Farm to Post” dinners have formed into my very own monthly food think-tank. After all, how could it not be? Post 390 always comes out swinging; this time greeting us with their newly crafted cocktail, the Provençal Gimlet. This combination of house-infused fennel vodka and a lavender simple syrup that has been muddled with basil, thyme, and lime is a refreshing flavor like no other I've tasted. Everyone was ordering seconds and thirds. So as we set out to engage the topic of farm sourced food, the stakes were raised.

A toasted baguette with a thick layer of Winter Luxury Pumpkin-Mustard and a bit of Chicken Liver Mousse graced our tongues as we discussed books like, “French Kids Eat Everything,” and “Blood, Bones and Butter.” We danced through topics with Sparrow Arc Farm owner Heather Lineham that relied heavily on agricultural knowledge. I spoke with Chef Eric Brennan about how hard sourcing farm food actually is. We talked about families that farm and we even did a toast to me: a blogger who has been working to promote family farming. It was all so “Foodie” of us. However this table was set with brussel sprouts, blue hubbard squash and the Boston Foodie so it really didn't surprise me when conversation chose this path.

Our first course dug deeply into the soil, exploding with root vegetables. Kennebec New Potato, Gilfeather Turnip and a Golden Rutabaga Rosti were topped with a hickory house-smoked Salmon, fresh whipped Rawson Brook Chevre, and colorful, pickled carrots and turnips on the side. Carefully forming bites allowed every delightful layer to be tasted which added up to a mouthful of earthy goodness. It was crispy, creamy and chewy all at the same time. The strong flavors sat well with the 2007 Trimbach Pinot Gris.

A puddle of Pennsylvania Dutch Crookneck Squash Bisque sat beneath a Brambly Farm Eggnog Custard flan with a fried sage leave. Hints of ginger and pepper graced your tongue and left you searching for more velvety deliciousness. It was perfectly paired with a 2008 light buttery Chardonnay from Firepeak Vineyard.

I relied heavily on the Gimlets and a glass of 2010 Dom Brut Pinot Noir to gear up for what came next.  Grilled Veal Sweetbreads with Dahlia Root. A.K.A.: My first time eating offal. For those of you who do not know, sweetbreads are the pancreas of the calf. Pancreas being the sugar processing agent for mammals, lends its duty to the name sweetbreads. I've actually had the pleasure of cooking these before but have always feared eating them. It was time. The texture was described by another diner as a “meaty mushroom” and I couldn't agree more. It was tender and had an intense charcoal grill flavor. Stir fried red peppers and carrots sat in a sauce of yuzu juice, Thai basil, symbal, ginger, aged mushroom soy sauce and hot mustard vinaigrette. The Dahlia root was also new to me; uniquely tasting of celery root, sunchoke and water chestnut all at the same time.  Overall I was quite impressed by this thoroughly new dish.

I sipped my way through a 2006 Domaines Ott, Bandol and awaited the final savory course. A superb Coffee and Cherry Rubbed Venison arrived rare over a gratin of Waldoboro Greenneck Turnip, foraged Chicken of the Wood mushrooms, Winter Kale, and a Black Currant game jus.  Like with any engaging winter “Games,” it hit all the right notes of satisfaction. It was warm, comfortable and somehow familiar. 

Last but not least we polished off the moistest Musque to Provence Pumpkin Cake topped with a light cream cheese frosting and candied pumpkin seeds. The cake was full of pumpkin flavor and held up so well as cake, it made me wonder why carrot cake had gotten all the fame. This dessert was spot on and a perfect ending to an evening filled with hearty conversation and fare. We toasted the night with a 2011 Moscato D’Asti and bid farewell to a family who works 24 hours a day to ensure we have good, healthy produce to eat. Anyone can salute to that. Cheers!

Photos taken by Chris Himmel