MassBytes Food Tour: El Pelon Taqueria

Chef Michael Schlow's Barrio Cantina Opens In Boston

BARRIO CANTINA OPENS IN BOSTON

Chef Michael Schlow Brings His Take on Mexican Food to Fenway

Boston, MA; February 6, 2013 – Nationally-acclaimed chef, restaurateur, and author Michael Schlow opens Barrio Cantina. Taking influences from traditional Mexican, Tex-Mex and California Mexican cuisines, Barrio Cantina is Boston’s destination for street tacos, nachos, quesadillas, fajitas, and Mexican-inspired dishes – all set against a backdrop of more than 80 reasonably-priced tequilas, a margarita menu boasting 15 varieties, and a relaxed, yet attentive level of service from General Manager/Partner Thomas Holland, who has helmed Tico for the last two years.

“Over the last fifteen years in Boston, I’ve had the pleasure of exploring some of the most exciting cuisines of the world through my restaurants,” says chef/owner Michael Schlow, whose restaurants include Radius, Via Matta, two Alta Strada locations, and Tico. “The flavors, ingredients, and passion behind Mexican cooking have always intrigued me, and I’m excited to share these with everyone at Barrio.”

To make the space feel wildly different than its predecessor Happy’s, an all-day diner, Michael enlisted his wife Adrienne to overhaul the once graffitti’d walls and cheeky décor. At six months pregnant with their first child, Adrienne redesigned the entire restaurant in less than three weeks, distressing the walls with warm honey-hued and gold-flecked paint and plastering the entire back wall of the dining room with vintage Mexican film posters from the 1950s and 1960s.

Lush velvet curtains in varying shades of crimson break up the once-cavernous space into an intimate dining room, a spirited lounge with sofas and armchairs in funky, clashing fabrics, and additional spaces for private parties and busy Red Sox game days. Large white candles in hurricane lamps dot the room, lending a warm flickering light. Scattered throughout the restaurant is original artwork and photography by both Michael and Adrienne. Additional design elements include brightly-colored Mexican blankets adorning the walls and a traditional, hand-painted Mexican-tiled chalkboard to highlight Barrio’s cocktails and tequila offerings.

For Barrio, Chef Michael Schlow collaborated with his longtime corporate chef Luis Morales on a menu divided into five sections – shared appetizers, street tacos, quesadillas, fajitas, and entrees. For sharing, there are familiar dishes (Loaded Nachos, Guacamole, Tuna Ceviche Tostados) as well as several dishes with unique Mexican influences (Baby Kale Caesar with Chipotle Croutons, Crispy Calamari with Ancho Dipping Sauce, and Steamed Mussels with Habanero Tomato Broth). There are six types of quesadillas (including a unique Philly Cheesesteak version), and seven street tacos served two to an order (Shredded Confit Chicken, Tongue ‘n Cheek). For entrees, there is the monster of all burritos, the Complete Burrito, with chicken, beef, pulled pork, chorizo, salsa, avocado, hot peppers, rice, and beans. Other highlights include Mexican Spiced Fried Chicken with Chipotle Fries, the Barrio Burger topped with jack cheese, avocado & jalapenos, and the Old Fashioned Cheeseburger with Chipotle Fries.

At the long, polished wood bar that runs the length of the dining room, more than 80 tequilas line the bright tomato-red shelves. Served on their own or in one of Barrio’s 15 signature margaritas, the tequilas include blanco, reposado, anejo, and extra anejo varieties. Barrio’s cocktail program specializes in these tequilas, as well as house infusions like ghost chili-infused tequila for the Hot ‘n Skinny Margarita, hibiscus-infused tequila for the Tico-tini and pineapple-infused vodka for the Tito’s Chi Chi. Frozen margaritas are also offered in flavors like strawberry, pomegranate, watermelon, raspberry, and kalamansi. The cocktails are rounded out by more domestic and imported wine and beers, including more than 20 by the bottle and 13 on draft (a mix of local and Mexican/Carribbean).

Barrio Cantina serves dinner nightly starting at 5:00 PM with lunch, weekend brunch, and outdoor patio dining to follow in the coming months.

Barrio Cantina
1363 Boylston Street
Boston, MA 02215
(857) 753-4100

www.barrioboston.com

Twitter: @BarrioBoston
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/BarrioCantinaBoston

Cafeteria (by Kosta)

I've walked down Newbury Street many times in the past, but somehow never managed to check out Cafeteria. The other night Steph Santos and I braved the rain to try it out. Entering through a basement level entrance, we were greeted by Demetri, the director of operations. He escorted us upstairs to a very open dining area with large windows that would let the sunlight in during the day. The ambiance that evening was very cozy; candles sat on the tables and muted lights in the background created an inviting feel. Our server Farah was very friendly, made good recommendations and was happy to discuss the various menu items and the restaurant in general.

After perusing the menu we dove into the cocktails. Steph started with the Blood Orange Fizz, ($10) a tangy citrus concoction with lime and mint that was sweet and refreshing. I had the Greek Mythology, ($12) a metaxa based drink with grapefruit juice, mint and honey. Later in the meal we switched to the Timeout, ($12) a cocktail more commonly known as a “Left Bank Martini” that is in the vein of vintage cocktails. Comprised of gin, St. Germain and Sauvignon Blanc, this was my favorite of the evening. We also tried the Bee Student ($10) which is a lighter version of the typical bourbon + citrus drink, with just a hint of honey. All the drinks were well balanced between the liquor and the mixers. The “cafeteria” themed names were cute.

While sipping on cocktails we ordered up a spread of appetizers and entrees.

The Spinach Artichoke Dip ($10) was outstanding. Finely chopped and pureed, the dip was creamy due to the goat cheese, a significant difference from what you find in many dips. It made for a rich and delicious appetizer. The flatbread was crispy and seasoned with an assortment of spices. Not inhaling the entire bowl all at once was a task.

I've never had Beef Carpaccio, ($12) but Cafeteria’s was pretty delicious. Incredibly thin slices of raw beef sirloin were drizzled in a mixture capers, olive oil, horseradish, and lemon with arugula on top, creating a delectable flavor. It was best when you got pieces that had all the ingredients mixed together.

I love Mexican food, so couldn’t pass up on the Cod Tacos. ($12.50) The flavors of the fish, radish, and pickled cabbage blended well. The spicy crema and salsa verde added a nice kick. The tortillas were flour instead of corn, but it did not detract, instead giving a subtler flavor. The fish was grilled which is how I prefer it as opposed to battered and fried. Overall they were a pretty good interpretation of west coast tacos.

I always like to try Greek food while eating out to see how it stands up to my family’s home cooking. The menu had a scattering of Greek and Middle Eastern influenced items on it. I tried a small sample of their tzatziki. A hint of lemon and garlic with small chunks of cucumber throughout mixed perfectly in the fresh Greek yogurt. I am more often than not disappointed by restaurant tzakiki due to their use of subpar yogurt or filler such as sour cream, Cafeteria did none of these things and succeeded at tzatziki.

Our entrees soon came out starting with the Mac –n- Cheese. ($14) It incorporated fontina and parmesan making a cheese sauce that was similar to what you would get when using beer or wine in your roué as opposed to one thickened up with creams. The flavor of the fancier cheese really came through and made this quite tasty. I recommend adding bacon if that’s your style.

As I've said in previous posts, properly prepared eggplant is hard to find when eating out. Too often it is overcooked and soggy, or not cooked enough. Cafeteria’s Eggplant Parmesan ($14.50) was one of those rare places where eggplant is done right. A hearty slice of lightly breaded eggplant stacked 6 pieces high was presented to us. The consistency was firm yet not hard and it melted apart in your mouth. Basil and fresh mozzarella topped the wedge. A light marinara covered each layer of eggplant, but didn't detract from the flavor. The side salad included quality greens such as spinach, arugula and red leaf lettuce; the dressing was simple lemony vinaigrette and nice compliment to the eggplant.

We picked their Boston Cream Burger ($13.50) as our choice out of the myriad of burger options. Of note was the preparation of the burger. We asked for medium, and medium we received; quite different from many places which can’t seem to prepare meat to specification. The grass fed beef with cheddar and sautéed onions made a great burger, but the habanero- radish cream cheese was the highlight. The spice of the habanero was cut by the cream cheese making a savory spread that was slathered over the bun. With the burger came a side of Parmesan Fries, which were double battered and sprinkled with parmesan. I just wanted to keep snacking on them. Next time I want to try the Homemade Black Bean Burger which looked amazing.

We finished off with a Caramel Apple Cheesecake ($8) and a 10 year Tawny Port. ($8) The caramel and apples were layered on top of the very dense, creamy cheesecake. Even though we were stuffed we made it through. The port was a complimentary partner.

I have to say Cafeteria did well with subtle and delicate; but also was very flavorful and put forward just the right amount of spice. I highly recommend checking them out for dinner and drinks if you find yourself wandering down Newbury Street like I have so many times.

Cafeteria
279a Newbury Street, Boston, MA
617-536-2233
http://www.cafeteriaboston.com/

Kung Pao Tacos with Ginger Green Beans

Hi, friends.  Sorry I'm late; I just got in on the red-eye this morning from Denver, where I was for the US Air Guitar National Championships (and also for the Dark Horse competition, in which my husband competed).  It was, as always, an amazing experience showcasing ridiculous talent - and I'm using the word "ridiculous" on purpose - with a bunch of fantastic people whom I wish I could see more than once a year.  Obviously since the national finals just happened, you've missed your chance to go this year, but leading up to nationals are all the regional competitions (the winner of each regional competes in the national championship), and I strongly urge you to go to your local regional next year.  You won't regret it, and hey - maybe you'll even be inspired to sign up!

But while I could have written about these Kung Pao tacos with ginger green beans while we were sitting in the airport waiting for our flight, I was exhausted (I mean, not that I'm so wide awake now - I got home, got into bed at the time I'm usually getting out of it, slept for 3 hours, then got up and went to the gym), and these tacos are so damn good, I wanted to do them justice. The Kung Pao chicken is delicious, sticky and spicy with a crunch from the peanuts, and then oh my god, ginger green beans! Can we put green beans in tacos from now on? It is genius face! Also, these are good on their own, so they're a legitimate side dish you don't have to just use as taco fillings.

Amazing weekend, amazing tacos.  I know I always say you should go make whatever I'm writing about, but these? Seriously, go make them right now.  They are one of the best things I've ever made, I think.

Vegivore Eats | Lentil Tacos (by Julia)

I like a lot of things about lentils: the fact that I can buy them for cheap in bulk at the co-op, their adaptability, the ease with which they're cooked. The thing I like the most about lentils, though, is that when I eat them, I feel like I'm eating something good for me; like I'm doing right by myself.

While we often see lentils in Indian or Middle Eastern food, today I'd like to share them with you as Lentil Tacos. Without going all Alton Brown on you, I'll say they're high in insoluble fiber and protein (one cup is 28% of your daily protein requirements) and nearly completely fat-free. In this dish, lentils combine with rice (making up the two amino acids that lentils lack) in this vegetarian version of traditional ground beef tacos to form a complete meat-substituting protein -- without the post-meat coma.

You'll find this early Summer food (though the weather hastens to remind us that it's still technically late Spring) light, warming from the inside-out, and reminiscent of the real deal...even in texture.

As a special diets personal chef, my clients all have some sort of dietary restriction, but when it comes to this lentil taco filling -- it's not only naturally vegetarian, but also gluten-free, dairy-free, soy-free and vegan. The bottom line? This is a fail-safe, metabolism-friendly, easy on the wallet, versatile and downright tasty Mexican-inspired dream of a meal.

Toasted corn shells stuffed with this lentil-rice filling, mixed greens from Kimball Fruit Farm (Pepperell, MA), corn kernels, garlic scapes and tomatoes from Dick's Market Garden (Lunenberg, MA) and topped with grated Asiago and Fontina cheeses as well as red onion rings.

LENTIL TACO FILLING

• 2 tsp olive oil
• 1 Spanish onion, finely diced
• 2 big honkin' garlic cloves, minced
• 1/2 tsp ground coriander
• pulverized dried Guajillo chile equalling 2 tsp (or substitute chile powder)
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp cumin
• 1/4 tsp garlic powder
• 1/4 tsp smoked paprika
• 1/2 tsp kosher salt
• 1c cooked short-grain brown rice
• 1c green lentils (or brown for a more "authentic" look, but they require pre-soaking), cooked with 1 dried bay leaf
• 4oz can chopped green chiles
• 1 TBS Cholula or your hot sauce of choice

1. First, get your spices mixed together and have them ready, along with a glass of water to splash in the hot pan and deglaze as necessary.
2. Heat the oil on medium-high, and saute the onion and garlic with a bit of salt for about 3 mins. They should be nicely browned. 
3. Add the spices and stir the mixture for about 30 seconds. (Don't forget, if the pan's bottom seems gunky -- and it should-- splash a little water in there and stir up those bits!)
4. Turn the heat down to medium and add your cooked rice and lentils, the hot sauce and chiles, as well as a splash of water.
5. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Taste for salt and spices, adjust as necessary.

Voila! Lentil taco filling. What'd I tell you, easy-peasy. Stuff corn shells like I did and add whatever toppings your heart desires, eat it hunched over the stove with a spoon, crown a salad with it. The possibilities are vast. And this stuff's even better the next day.

Enjoy!

PRO TIP: Rinse your lentils well, then slow-simmer 'em for 45 minutes vs. the normal-simmer 20 minutes it usually takes, to save yourself any -- ahem -- tummy rumbles. By cooking them slowly, you're breaking down the lentils' starch that typically is hard for your body to digest.

Late Night Burrito Joint in Harvard Square by Kristofer Jenson

Felipe's Taqueria is a comedown destination after hitting some Harvard bars. A HUGE perk that it's open late, 2 am Thu-Sat and midnight all other days.

Long gone are the days where you'd go to Harvard Square and make an event of it, with all of the colorful characters, unique shops and endless opportunities for adventure (with a hint of danger). To this day I feel strange taking a shortcut through what was once "the Pit," having previously been home to some of Boston's finest and most dignified outcasts.

In the years following the first Abercrombie opening, it seemed the only reason Harvard Square existed for me was the 86/66 to Red Line connection. I was so used to mentally screaming "SELL OUT!" every time I passed by that I didn't notice that it still has some life to it (even if that life is more boring) with some new bars, excellent restaurants and Charlie's Kitchen still thriving.

My First Time by Kristofer Jenson

We all remember our first time. Mine was in August 2001. I was 18. I was feeling restless on a hot night, so I went out to find something I'd never done before. As soon as I heard that name, "Anna," I knew I wouldn't be able to resist. So welcoming, so friendly, and always ready for me. And it barely cost me anything. I...WHAT?! No! I'm talking about my first burrito at Anna's Taqueria, sicko!

Anna's was my introduction to the wonderful world of burritos. It's where I perfected my order, the one I take with me everywhere I go: steak super burrito, pinto beans, salsa, sour cream, hot sauce, no guac (unless there's something interesting about it). Of course, this makes reviewing it both a delightful and terrifying. Can I do my love of it justice? Can I remain unbiased in the face of such beauty?

One way to guarantee objectivity and honesty is to shake things up, get the person out of their comfort zone, so I switched up my order. Pictured you'll see my regular order, the above-described burrito, along with two tacos (Al Pastor and salsa roja - grilled carne asada in red chile sauce), horchata and a sunflower drink called "Jamaica" (you may know it as "hibiscus tea"). Maybe breaking the pattern would cajole some observations that are less than fawning.