Moxy—Where Regional Cuisine is Supreme (by Nina Quirk)

Getting sick of Asian fusion yet? If you are, then it’s time to think outside the box and head to Portsmouth, NH to meet Chef Matt Louis. He is armed with “Moxy,” loaded with native foods, and prepared to make his mark on American cuisine. This riff on New England favorites by way of Spanish tradition (Tapas), earns its stars and stripes for having a strongly defined personality for a restaurant.

In Spain (and much of southwestern Europe) regional cooking is an art form in its own right. Most restaurants and the majority of households serve up small plates with ingredients exclusive to their region. You will not find any shellfish in central Spain, and if you do note the locals are not eating it. That is because food tastes freshest right where it was cultivated. Inspired by this fine custom, owners Matt Louis and Jay McSharry bring to us their version of our supreme, regional cuisine. As I drove across the Mass border to dine at this up and coming restaurant I thought of how regional our food system could be if we so desired. Not just a few chefs doing it but everyone looking in their own backyard (foraging maybe?) to put our best food foot forward.

 

As you enter this arena of “self-possessed confidence” you are immediately drawn into the laid back atmosphere. Sherbet colored walls and friendly (but knowledgeable) faces keep the charm simple and inviting.  I’d like to think that every picture on the wall, every face in the open kitchen, and every person on the service team has been interviewed to ensure they’ve “Got Moxy?”just like their T-shirts read.

I was invited to attend a press dinner comprised of various food writers to try this “new” cuisine. Matt explained that everything on the menu had to fulfill three ideologies.

(1.) It needed to be sourced regionally in Northern New England.

(2.) The small plates were to replicate traditional Spanish tapas.

(3.) All of the food would honor the New England area.

The menu is broken down into Regional Pinchos, American Bocadillos, and Modern American Tapas. The Spanish staples are reworked showcasing our regions finest ingredients. Then they add the New England element with dishes such as Grilled NH corn ($6) with Brookford Cheddar, Tomato Vinaigrette and Chili Aioli and a New England Dinner ($15) featuring grass-fed beef brisket. These are just some of the hits that change weekly based on availability.

He showcased fifteen simple small plates to our group which quickly added up to an enormous meal.  After my first bite of Grilled Peach, Terrene Goat Cheese (from Harvard, MA) and Caramelized Spring Onions ($4) served unpretentiously on a toothpick; I realized I’d found a new chef to love and follow.  Matt’s modesty belies his impressive resume. He’s essentially worked as an understudy to the highly acclaimed Thomas Keller, working at three of his restaurants including: Bouchon, French Laundry and Per Se. He has also spent time under other legends such as, Momofuku Ko’s David Chang, while doing stints at various big name restaurants all over.

Thankfully Matt was drawn back to his NH roots and we’re reaping the benefits. While he stated that his concept is more aligned with Chang, his training under the “perfect-bite” Master Keller is apparent on the plates. Each ingredient is carefully considered. What is the Spanish version like? How can I replicate that using our foods? He explained his thought process behind each dish on the extensive menu. Right down to the sunflower seeds he grinds for his “tahini” that he pairs with Salt Cod Fritters ($5), yogurt marinated cucumber and a carrot salad on top to complete the picture.  Since sesame seeds are not local to New England, he had to adjust to what is available, namely sunflowers. These fritters are perfection. If you had asked me before if I liked salt cod, I’d say no because I’ve never had it prepared so well. These were tender, slightly salty, cut with some potato and fried crisp. Matt explained the fish was line caught right out on the docks outside the window. Fried Wake Robin Tomatillos ($4) with a chunky Grilled Corn Crème were just about the best fried green tomatoes I’ve ever had. They were tart, crunchy and cooked just right. Michele’s Fried Hen Egg ($7) was exquisite; complimented by a potato salad, roasted red peppers and arugula for a winning combo that could be breakfast, lunch or dinner.

While it’s hard to say what exactly my favorite thing was that I ate, a few things left a lasting impression. The Apple Cider Lacquered Pork Belly skewered next to seared Maine Cherry Tomatoes and Marinated Watermelon ($5) comes to mind. A crispy, glazed mouthful of this hot treat was just such a delight that I couldn’t help myself from having a few more. Hasty Pudding “Frites” ($5), made from corn that was ground at The Maine Grind, were a sort of polenta French fries served next to Molasses BBQ sauce and Buttermilk Dip. The dish was delicious with one, none or both sauces. Pan seared Misty Knoll Farms pulled Chicken Thighs ($13) with ginger and cilantro hints, served next to lettuce wraps were fantastic and fun to share. Beef Short Rib Marmalade ($6) on grilled bread with pickled onions and Great Hill Blue Cheese were rich, bountiful, filling and melted in your mouth.

Each course was simple in presentation, complex in flavor, and did a nice job evoking a New England summer. And what summer is complete without Fried Dough ($8) for dessert? His take on Churros is crisply fried (perhaps a bit more than I like, I prefer more chew in my dough) and comes with a flight of dipping sauces like maple caramel, apple chutney and peach compote. Whoopie Pie Sliders ($8) with a creamy melted chocolate sauce to dip in were an indulgence well worth it. The cakes were chewy and moist and the filling had just the right sweetness. I didn’t need the extra chocolate but it tasted divine.

I could go through and list every other inspiration on this menu that I tried but then I’d save no fun for you. Get in your car and check out this new local destination worth driving to. Matt Louis and Moxy have started something new even for New England.