390 Post: Ways to Use Kimball Fruit Farms (by Nina Quirk)

“Handpies. Get it?” If you’ve worked anywhere near a chef or a kitchen then you “Get it.” Pastry Chef Molly Hanson sitting to my left is chuckling to herself as Owner Chris Himmel relives the naming of our fruit filled parting gift: Blackberry Handpies. These free formed turnover-esque delights bursting at the seams with blackberries became breakfast the next morning allowing our farm dinner to live on. How clever I thought.

I've started to feel spoiled by Chef Eric Brennan’s type of dining: monthly dinners with six courses of farm fresh produce backed by specialty cocktails, wine and gifts to endorse the abundance. Oh, did I mention I even left with a pink rose and rhubarb arrangement that is now sitting pretty on my kitchen table. It’s not a rough life; however I do have to put in the work. I have to keep up conversation with intelligent minded people focused on bringing the freshest produce to the heart of Boston. I have to watch movies with reggae music and flashing food porn images (By this I do not mean perverse fruit displays. I mean produce so beautiful that it literally feels heartily sexy.) And finally, I have to eat my heart out. All of this whilst laughing, growing, and learning more about the Farm to Post movement. I guess that’s work I can live with.

This month Post 390 is featuring one of Boston’s most beloved farmer’s market staples: Kimball Fruit Farm in Pepperell, MA. The farm boasts over 170 acres of veg-to-full agriculture. Pictures of peaches, callaloo greens, heirloom tomatoes and 40 varieties of apples hit the screen as we sat down to embark on a hand selected tour of Kimball Farms. A "(K)" will represent where their supreme produce has been used.

While chatting about motherhood with Channel 7 News reporter Linda Ergas, I munched on a small triangle of toasted Potato Bread topped with Peach (K) Chutney and a thick slab of Foie Gras. I pounded a quick three without being seen…I just happen to really love Foie Gras. This sweet and savory bite was all I needed to rev the stomach engine. But that’s not the most interesting part of the appetizer hour. It was definitely the drink. The Peach N’ Pig, Chris explained to us is a bourbon that has been house smoked and bacon infused. Homemade Peach (K) Simple Syrup and a Grilled Peach (K) garnished the glass. This manly drink was meant for sipping with its strong flavors exuding in arrogant confidence. This pig could probably wear a mustache.

Lacking arrogance, boasting farm confidence (rightfully so), and just full of charming personality were the Kimball’s Fruit Farm operators. Third generation owners Carl and Marie Hill sat at one end of the table like the parents of our very own farm family. Next to them, their daughter and son-in-law made the familial picture more complete. Down the line were Chris who sat next to his own mother Janet, and his sister Melissa. Other family friends included the Leonhard’s, who provided the lavish fruit, vegetable and flower arrangements that bed a garden down the table. It all just felt so homey.

Chef Eric presented his version of Garden Gazpacho to the group of seated eaters. This delightful garden essence water included a field’s worth of produce: Cucumbers (K), Tomatoes (K), Peppers (K), Jalapeno Peppers (K), and Melon (K). A perfectly shaped log of sweet cantaloupe lay in the garden pond with a thick layer of creamy Rawson Brook Chevre on top. Avocado and Tomato (K) Brunoises Salsa covered the cheese. Each bite was like a fruit enhanced vegetable day dream.

Course three brought a delicious trio of Japanese Eggplant (K), Peppers (K), and Florida Shrimp. This Thai inspired dish had hints of ginger butter, fermented black bean sauce, braised pork belly and mizuna (K). Thai Basil from the chef’s garden accented this inspiration. Shrimp Paste smeared on top of the peppers and eggplant added crunch and a new depth of flavor to the dish. The German Reisling we sipped washed it down with a light acidity.

After a stint in Asia I was brought right back to my New England roots with cornmeal crusted Pan Roasted Silver Hake. This type of codfish lay atop of a Beefsteak Heirloom Tomato (K), Succotash made of green beans (K), peppers (K), potatoes (K), and corn (K) and lay in a puddle of Liquid Corn on the Cob (K). Liquid Corn on the Cob is one of Eric’s summertime favorites where he captures the true essence of the corn and then makes it creamy rich with the addition of butter. Any true New Englander can appreciate this philosophy where corn is at its peak this time of year.

Soon the summer ended (at least on our plates) and fall fell into our laps. Any food that can just evoke a season for me, wins my vote. Grilled (apple pie) Spiced Rubbed Pekin Duck with an apple (K) - Duck Confit Fritter laid next to Apple (K) Butter and sautéed Kale (K). Midsummer and I couldn’t get October out of my mind. Prune plums (K) and ginger notes accented my fall fancy. Pure maple sugar next to the Cote du Rhone and heaven and I were in sync. I wish I had saved a bit of room for dessert but I didn’t. My stomach was so full. Miraculously though I pulled it off. After Molly explained to us her home style Peach (K) Cobbler with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Blackberry (K) Sauce, and Cinnamon Toast Tuile, I knew I would still be eating. It doesn’t get better than this folks. I licked the plate clean and didn’t even care that my pant buttons were bursting. I would’ve eaten another if that were available. Moist, rich but nothing was overkill. A perfect end to a perfect meal.