Thursday, June 14, 2012

Vegivore Eats | Green Garlic-Cheddar Souffle (by Julia)

I love the taste of this time of year.  The farmer's markets open for the season prominently displaying piles of green garlic, earthy and mild, a garlic plant not allowed to grow to cloves and prized for its snappy almost-bite and fleeting availability.

 

The immature shoots are not yet reminiscent of garlic in appearance, but when you get close enough to smell them, there's no mistaking they're family. They share much of the same health benefits as the grown-up bulb garlic, too, acting as an antibiotic and anti-inflammatory antioxidant, and can also ward off the rainy-day sniffles.  Plus, they are freaking tasty!

In this recipe, a simple souffle base ensures that the green garlic (Linabella's, Oakham, MA) is the true star; its gentle spiciness giving a tang to each bite.  Combined with farmhouse cheddar (Shelburne Farms, Shelburne, VT), farm eggs (Silverbrook Farm, Dartmouth, MA)*, a touch of nutmeg and lemon thyme from my window garden (you could also use regular thyme), this vegetarian dish offers an airy, bright and well-rounded tribute to late spring and early summer.  Cooking the green garlic will soften and sweeten, too, adding a layer of depth you might not have expected.  And the cherry on top of this whole experience: a souffle is tall and ethereal; dramatic.  What a presentation!



GREEN GARLIC SOUFFLE
Feeds 3-4
  • 2 TBS butter, plus more for dish
  • 2 tsp fine bread crumbs
  • 1 chubby bulb of green garlic, prepared as described below and minced (if you simply canNOT find it, substitute larger scallions...if you must)
  • 1/2 clove of shallot, minced
  • 1/8 c cake flour
  • 1 c whole (or 2%) milk
  • 2 sprigs of lemon thyme + extra leaves as desired
  • scant 1/8 tsp ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 tsp + 1/8 tsp kosher salt
  • 1/4 tsp black pepper
  • 2 egg yolks and 4 egg whites
  • 1/3c grated white sharp cheddar
  • 1/8 c + 1 T minced green garlic greens
  1. Preheat the oven to 400.  Butter a 1-quart gratin dish (or a small casserole dish, or individual ramekins) and coat the bottom and sides with the bread crumbs.  
  2. Now, make a roux by melting the butter, letting it cook for a minute, then whisking in the flour.  Cook for 5 minutes or so, then turn that roux into a herbed bechamel by adding the milk and thyme.  Whisk for 2 minutes, until the mixture is heavy and smooth.  Whisk in the nutmeg, salt and pepper and turn off the heat.  Pour into a mixing bowl and gradually add the egg yolks one at a time, whisking constantly and taking your time.  Whisk in the minced green garlic bulb, shallot and the 1/8c minced greens, as well as the cheddar cheese.  Set aside.
  3. In a clean, nonreactive bowl, whip the egg whites with the 1/8 tsp salt until you reach the soft peaks stage.  Starting with a quarter of your whites, and then continuing with the remainder, gently fold them into the yolks mixture (don't deflate your hard work!) and discard the thyme stems.
  4. Smooth the finished batter into the ready pan and bake for about 25 minutes (15 mins for individual souffles), or until it is puffy, deliciously golden brown and only slightly jiggles in the middle. ( Every oven is different, times may vary, but resist the urge to check on your souffle during the first 3/4 of baking; don't touch that oven door or you'll be sorry! )
...

PRO TIP: To prepare the green garlic, trim off the green and root ends then give it a 10-second-long swim in cold water (seriously, zoom it around in there; eke out all the dirties). Whereas you might fuss with the sticky skin on a garlic clove or onion, you needn't worry about that here.  Save the greens for both the recipe and garnish, mince or chop finely.

(*) PRO TIP: Use older eggs.  I used my eggs from last week's market excursion, as eggs that are too fresh will not hold air as well.  Also, cold eggs are easier to separate, but they should be at room temp before proceeding with the recipe.

Vegivore Eats | Green Garlic-Cheddar Souffle (by Julia)

No comments:

Post a Comment