Farm to Post and the Pig Farmers (by Nina Quirk)

As my husband and I drove home from our 5^th monthly Farm to Post dinner, we discussed how our favorite part of each meal (besides the amazing food) is getting to meet the farmers.  While most Americans celebrate people on T.V. screens, I am utterly dumbfounded when I meet a nice wholesome farmer. I find something so righteous about busting your hump to provide our nation with honest food.

This month at Post 390 you can sample a fine array of pigs from Brambly Farms in Norfolk, MA. (A (B) will appear next to their product throughout this article.) These include heritage pigs like Tamworths, Large Blacks, Red Wattle, and Gloucestershire Old Spots; breeds that are a minority in our nation and offer some of the finest pork products around. Each of the 100 or so pigs on Brambly Farms is spoken for at birth. Every good restaurateur in Boston is vying to get their hands on these hogs due to their exquisite quality.  Some breeds are picked because they are fattier and more flavorful, while others are picked for their leaner co-parts. Whichever breed you’re eating, you can bet your (pork) butt that it’s going to be ridiculously good.

My husband and I walked into the room and it was filled with the largest group we'd seen at Farm to Post. We ran right over to a man and woman standing together, "Are you the featured farmers?" We were dying to meet the two people who were providing food for our group that evening, only this time, we asked the wrong couple. "No, I'm a writer (for a very important magazine!)

The farmers were standing at the opposite side of the table, looking around while sipping their Pig N’ Peach cocktails. I went over and introduced myself to Ted and Sandra O’Harte a.k.a. the animal farmers. These off the boat Irish folk spoke with pride about their family farming operation, explaining to me the ins and outs of raising animals for a living. Like the nursing and weaning process that their pigs partake in. You probably never thought you’d discuss pig breastfeeding before dinner. Well I did and it was quite interesting.  For instance, pigs would suckle throughout their whole lives but are stopped after a certain amount of time so that the mother hog can heal for her next litter. It made me think of how connected all of us animals are when I could relate to the pigs’ issues.

Ted also talked about how he raised a group of rare birds that had been eaten by fisher cat’s right before they reached their peak. He told me about raising hens, ducks, pheasants, turkeys, and  how superior the product was when they were pasture fed and happy throughout their lives. While all farming is hard work, there is something to be said about a family that raises animals for a living. They breed them and nourish them, fall in love with them and then have to send them off to the meat “processor.” (On a side note- did you know there are only 2 meat processors in the whole state of Massachusetts? The farmers have to book months in advance and compete with each other for slots, many of them going out of state to process their meat. That’s beyond absurd considering the amount of meat that is probably consumed in our state.) Sad but true, this family will endure heart ache, losses, and some successes (like Farm to Post!), but they are doing work that we can all be proud of. These animals were raised solely for the purpose of food; food that I’m likely to rave about for decades.

Ecstatic to be serving such a superior product, Chef Eric Brennan explained to us his methodologies for extracting the goodness from this farm. His excitement was set down before us in the form of a decadent fried Lobster (B)LT’s that everyone could not stop eating. Then a creamy, thick slab of Pate arrived with some mustard and cornichon on toast. Egg (B) Drop Soup with Crab, accompanied by a Pork (B) and Florida Shrimp Potsticker served over an aged mushroom soy sauce and a Swiss chard/scallion aioli. This dish was spectacular; it was very unique but not over the top. Just plain tasty.

Next up was Roast Thai Cured Pork Belly (B) that was juicy, succulent and melded wonderfully with the Mango, Jicama and Scituate Lobster Salad it sat next to. Layers of Thai basil, cilantro and mint danced with the pickled Thai chili.

Inspired by their farm movement, Post hired a new beer guy who is in the know on the latest nano-brews. This new type of beer comes from tiny home distillers throughout the region. The meal was paired with a variety of beers including; Pretty Things, High and Mighty, Jack’s Abby, and many more I highly recommend you go and sample. I was impressed by this fine movement to keeping it local.

But now it’s back to bacon.  Maple-Rosemary Bacon (B) that is with wrapped Scituate scallops served over liquid corn on the cob and a succotash of red kidney beans, Tasso (B) ham, and fried corn. This was a creamy, smoky heaven topped by crispy fried sweet potato strings which added a new textural element. Grilled spice rubbed Pork Loin (B) served next to an outstanding Pulled Pork (B) and Pear Fritter, sautéed Swiss chard and a Prune Plum-Ginger Pork Jus was delightfully succulent.

I was stuffed but knew that the feast was not over. I was delighted by another Molly Hanson design, Old Fashion Apple Pie with a lard (B) crust. It had a crumb topping and was simply an apple pie done right, which in all honesty, is rare. No pie is complete without vanilla ice cream, but a dried apple wafer sat delicately on top and had the most intense apple flavor I’ve ever eaten.  All in all, I’d say this chef/farm combo is a winner worth stopping in Post 390 for. If you think there’s a bacon shortage out there, run into this contemporary tavern and get your fix of not only bacon, but rare homegrown bacon that’s been kissed by Maple and Rosemary.