Tryst (by Kosta)

A couple weeks back Sarah Sparks and I went out for an amazing evening of fine dining at Tryst in Arlington. As we walked in we were escorted to a cozy corner near the back. The dimly lit restaurant and dark colors of the décor created a comfortable atmosphere. Business was brisk throughout the night, but it never felt rushed or overwhelming. Our server was quite witty and we had enjoyable conversations with him throughout the meal when he came by.

We started out the evening with a cocktail called the Rin Tin Gin ($10). A mix of gin with a hint of fresh lime and ginger beer made for a good start. None of the strong components masked the others, a theme that persisted throughout the meal in both the drinks and food.

We proceeded to order up a bevy of appetizers, all which left us wanting more.

First up were the Shrimp Tacos ($10) which were served in traditional corn tortillas. The shrimp was ever so lightly battered, sautéed and covered in a spicy aji crema. Shaved pieces of hot peppers were stuffed in with the shrimp, adding a burst of spice. Avocado, red onions and shredded cabbage rounded out the fillings. These may be some of the tastiest shrimp tacos I’ve had on the east coast.

Our next appetizer was the P.E.I. Mussels ($10). The mussels melted in my mouth. They were very clean, not fishy at all. The sauce was the star here, a light wine broth, stewed with Thai basil, onions, garlic, jalapenos and charred tomatoes which whetted our appetite for more.

I’m always curious to see what restaurants do with traditional Middle Eastern dishes.  Tryst’s Grilled Koftes ($8) did not disappoint.  The savory balls of ground spiced lamb were seared on the outside and juicy within.  Greek yogurt was drizzled over each one and fresh capers were strewn between them.  The flavors were rich, but oh so delicious.  Almost as good as my grandmother makes!

We ordered the House Cured Bresaola ($9) on a whim not knowing what to expect.  The bresaola was thin slices of cured meat similar to a sopressata or prosciutto.  The sweet fig jam contrasted nicely with the sharp bleu cheese and cured bresaola.  All together this created a mix of sensations that were very complimentary.  Fresh arugula topped the affair, adding yet another facet to the appetizer.

The waiter brought out a Sweet Corn Bisque ($9) while we awaited our entrees.  The sweet, creamy chowder was a great palate cleanser after the appetizers.  A nice added bonus was pieces of smoked paprika popcorn floating in the bisque, which gave the soup a bit more character.

We sampled the five sides ($6 each) they had on the menu.

One would not expect fried rice at a restaurant like this, but their smoked ham & wild mushroom fried rice side was scrumptious.  Lightly cooked peas mixed with small, salty chunks of pork were mixed in with the rice, which was lightly fried in soy sauce.  This dish was quite a tasty surprise.

Within all the heavier foods there were two vegetable sides, but these were not your typical steamed vegetables that are perfunctorily added to main courses.  The Ginger & Garlic Spinach was wilted just right leaving it a vibrant green with a hint of garlic and ginger throughout.  I’m not a fan of broccoli rabe, but The Garlicky Rabe with Chili Flake & Evoo, was delicious.  It lacked the bitterness rabe can have and was very garlicky, always a plus in my book.

The Wild Mushroom Arancini were tantalizing balls of ground mushroom topped with just a touch of basil cream and truffle oil.  Even though the Arancini was deep fried it was paradoxically light and creamy, while being one of the richest items we had.

The Truffle fries were light, crisp and hand cut with just a hint of truffle oil and some chives on top.  Tryst really knows how to use truffle oil sparingly and to good use, unlike other places which tend to make it the central focus of their food.

Next up were the entrees.  They three we sampled were very simple, yet complex. The paring of various fresh ingredients really highlighted the tastes without relying heavily on sauces or spices.

A signature entree was Tryst’s Pig Under a Brick ($20) which took inspiration from southern style pulled pork and grits and gave it a twist.  The pork was piled in the center of the plate where it had been cooked under a brick.  The top crust was seared and comprised of a sweet and savory topping with a bit of peach mostarda. The entire affair was very tender, falling apart in my mouth, a light spice suffusing the meat.  Underneath were creamy grits mingled with Swiss chard.  This dish brought a delicious take on the standard.

The Bourbon Marinated Steak Tips ($19) were dripping with flavor that had been expertly seared into the inside of the succulent generously sized pieces of steak.  The sweet bourbon notes mixed well with the steak. The croquettes were filled with a fluffy cheese mixture that was then lightly battered and deep fried.  The smoked tomato aioli was a great complement, adding a bit of tang to the cheesiness of the croquettes. The arugula side salad could have been an afterthought but this was a great counterpoint to the croquettes and steak tips.  The salad was lemony with a dusting of parmesan and tender young arugula, a very refreshing addition to the plate.  As many of the other dishes the disparate parts really came together.

The fish entrée we tried was the Local Swordfish. ($25) The swordfish steak was meaty and flaky with a delicate flavor.  The filet rested on a bed of sweet toasted corn, roasted potatoes and chanterelle mushrooms.  The sweet, mild taste of the swordfish really came through and played well with the vegetables.

We were fit to burst after the array of dishes we tried, but couldn’t pass up trying one of their desserts, the Molten Chocolate Cake ($8). The exterior was a brownie like cake, which exploded with a molten chocolate filling after the first incision.  The cake was so decadent and rich that I couldn’t stop eating it even though I was already full.  A scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side finished off the meal.

Tryst’s chef is a genius.  He excels at combining contrasting ingredients within various dishes so that no one part stands out and they all blend in an intricate play of taste.  The ingredients are fresh, big, and flavorful.  Tryst was a wonderful experience that I’d recommend to anyone, especially for a romantic night out.

Tryst Restaurant
689 Massachusetts Avenue
Arlington, MA
781-641-2227
http://www.trystrestaurant.com/